Dec 09 2009
When Abdel Khila first looked at the narrow storefront on Washington Road that had previously housed an outpost of Enrico Biscotti Company, he thought it was too small to be a sit down restaurant. But when another location fell through, he decided it might work after all. After years of working in other people's restaurants and even leaving the profession entirely for a time, Khila was ready for a place of his own.
Khila, who was born in Morocco and moved to the United States in 1997, has a bachelor's degree in hotel and restaurant management. He and his wife had talked about opening their own place since 2004, but after getting married and deciding to have kids, he instead found himself thinking about leaving the restaurant business entirely. He considered his other skills, and realized that he should make use of his aptitude for foreign languages -- he speaks French, Arabic, Moroccan, English, Spanish and some Czech. So, he got a Master's Degree and became a French and Arabic teacher at Upper St. Clair High School.
He loved his job and spending time with his two young children, but his desire to have his own place, and to introduce Pittsburgh to the food of his childhood, stayed with him. About a year ago, he realized that if he was ever going to do it, now was the time.
Kous Kous Cafe, which has been open for about three weeks, sticks to authentic Moroccan cuisine, including harira, bastilla, tajines and couscous. Khila sources ingredients locally whenever possible, and tries to only use free-range chicken, grass-fed beef and lamb and the freshest fish and seafood. Fresh herbs, especially cilantro and parsley, and a number of spices such as paprika, ginger, saffron and cumin are also important to Moroccan cuisine. Eventually, Khila plans to add brunch as well.
Someday, he may go back to the teaching profession, but for now Khila is content to instruct only his customers by offering them the delicious flavors and dishes that have been developed in Morocco over thousands of years.
Nov 16 2009
It's worth braving the construction in Market Square to check out Jason Capps' new lunch and happy hour destination, Bella Sera on the Square. The menu consists of sandwiches ($9), salads ($9) and appetizers ($10). Choices include pan roasted turkey with smoked gouda and roasted red pepper mayo, a grilled salmon salad with pomegranate molasses, chevre, beets and citrus vinaigrette, and veal meatballs with parmigiano reggiano and rustic marinara. Each day they'll also offer take-away deli items, a pasta feature and soups.
Capps also owns and operates the Bella Sera event venue and Greco's Gourmet Catering in Canonsburg. The Market Square location, which is open Monday through Friday from 10 a.m. until 9 p.m., will offer catering services for everything from drop off lunches to full-service parties.
Food is front and center, but the drink list at Bella Sera is more than twice as long as the food options. The beer list includes Dream Weaver Wheat from Harrisburg ($4.50), Milk Stout from Lancaster ($4.50) and Straub's All Natural from St. Marys ($3.50). House cocktails like the Negroni with beefeater gin, campari, punta mes and orange ($9) or the
Louisville Slugger with Basil Hayden bourbon, fresh sours mix and
candied ginger are guarenteed to ease the transition from work to relaxation.
About a dozen white wines and almost two dozen red wines are available by the glass, with prices ranging from $8 to $24. There's also a reserve list of Italian and domestic wines available only by the bottle, $38 to $175. Those looking for more of a bargain can choose from three house wines for $7 a glass, just be aware that they're poured from a box, not a bottle (a fact that menu clearly displays).
The use of some premium box wines fits in with Bella Sera's emphasis on green business practices. According to Capps, it's the first restaurant in Pittsburgh to be certified by the Green Restaurant Association.
Nov 09 2009
Chris Bonfili left the Red Room Cafe in East Liberty in April of 2008, ready to pursue his dream of opening his own restaurant. After more than 18 months of planning and searching for the right space, he and his wife Jennifer plan to open Avenue B to the public next weekend. The restaurant name is a combination of the owners' (B for Bonfili) and the restaurant's location on Centre Avenue in Shadyside, which was previously occupied by the Istanbul Grille.
Chef Bonfili described the restaurant, which will be BYOB, as an "unfussy bistro" that will serve "globally-inspired new American cuisine" -- a place where sashimi and risotto both find a home, but probably not on the same plate. There will be a small menu of staple dishes, which will change seasonally, along with daily chalkboard specials. For now Avenue B will be open for dinner only, but Bonfili plans to add lunch in the future; call for information about the reservation policy. Avenue B, 5501 Centre Avenue, 412-683-FOOD (3663)
Nov 04 2009
For anyone who hasn't checked out the Strip on a Sunday morning, here's another great reason: Kaya is now serving brunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. The brunch menu includes plenty of old favorites, such as the Cuban sandwich, the crispy fish tacos and the Yucatan black bean dip, but our server encouraged us, and I encourage you, to try one of the new brunch only items. The menu is still evolving, but I'd bet that the dished we tried hang out for a little while (at least I hope they do!).
The Kaya Benedict ($12) substituted cornbread for the English muffin and pork loin (with other options, including soy sausage) for the Candian bacon. The hollandaise sauce was flavored with smoked pepper and the poached eggs were cooked to perfection -- egg yolks thickened, but not yet solid.
I fell hard for the South American omelette ($9), which enfolds diced pork loin (miraculously still moist), roasted anaheim peppers, black eye peas and manchego cheese in fluffy folds of egg. Egg dishes come with grilled pineapple (get a double-order for an extra $2, it's worth it) and some delectable potatoes.
They have some fun brunch cocktails on the menu as well, like the Vampiro, their take on a bloody mary with tequila, fresh grapefruit juice and a dash of lime; and the Belgian Waffle Martini with Sortilege maple whiskey, Kahlua and Frengelica.
Oct 30 2009
The Liberty Avenue storefront across from West Penn Hospital, once home to Cafe Roma, has become the home of a new Italian restaurant. Stagioni will open its door this Sunday for brunch and then for a grand opening dinner on Tuesday. Chef Stephen Felder and restaurant owner Cara DelSignore moved to Pittsburgh -- DelSignore's hometown -- almost three years ago, hoping to open up their own restaurant.
The restaurant is named after the Italian word for seasons, becauseFelder gets much of his inspiration from what's available at the local farmer's market. Diners can expect to see menu items such as market-inspired salads, braised beef short ribs with root vegetables, and house-made gnocchi. Felder and DelSignore designed the menu to be affordable without sacrificing quality of ingredients, and most entrees will be priced at around $15 to $18.
Stagioni will be open seven days a week, with brunch only on Sundays, lunch only on Mondays, and lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday; BYOB; 4770 Liberty Ave., Bloomfield; 412-687-5775.
Oct 01 2009
Dianne Porter, whose been making fabulous cocktails behind the bar of Morton's for fifteen years, is turning her attention to other parts of the menu as well. She's opening her own place in Allegheny West on the North Shore. Cassis, which is located near the corner of Western and Galveston Ave, will open October 13 for lunch, dinner and Sunday Brunch.
The restaurant has two dining rooms, which together can seat about 50. There's also a two-level back patio and a permit for sidewalk seating, but given the cold weather, Porter will likely wait until next summer to add outdoor seating. The dining rooms are decorated in "rich jewel tones," said Porter. Tables are covered with burgundy linens and white butcher paper, and the walls are decorated with photos of North Side windows and doors taken by a local photographer.
The menu ranges across a number of styles and cuisines. There are steamed dumplings of the day (6 for $8) and smoked trout spread with sliced apples and baguette ($7). There's also squid salad with Greek dressing ($10) and flank steak fajitas with black beans, spicy tomatillo salsa and sour cream ($10). The vast majority of the dishes are inexpensive, including lots of interesting sandwiches and salads for less than $10.
Since Porter certainly knows her way around a bar, it's no surprise that she's also enthusiastic about the wine list --about 30 bottles, 20 of them under $40 -- and cocktails. There will be several signature drinks featuring creme de cassis (black currant liqueur), including the Kir Royal - creme de cassis and champagne.
Sep 17 2009
Paris 66, one of the two restaurants I reviewed this week, has made a few additions that didn't make it into the review, but which I wanted to mention here. At the request of guests, they're adding some appetizers, such as a house made pate they tried out last week, which was very well received. They're also working out a plan to keep their outdoor patio open all winter, by enclosing it in clear plastic and putting in heaters. "Just like in Paris," as owner Frederic Rongier said.
I was impressed by Rongier's enthusiasm. Though Rongier's primary career is outside the restaurant industry, he seems to be one of the rare individuals who can learn as he goes, by sheer force of will and determination. He also plans to add comment cards to come with the check, so he can continue to get feedback from his customers.
Sep 09 2009
When Ron Razete made his donuts at weekend festivals and outdoor events, people always had the same question. "Where can I buy these?" He didn't have an answer, because until last month he didn't have a store. It was only when he found a tiny storefront on Smallman Street, less than 300 square feet, that he thought it might be possible to open up a donut shop and make a go of it. Peace, Love and Little Donuts had found a permanent home.
He and his wife Marci specialize in little donuts, miniature treats about the size of a donut hole but shaped like a traditional donut. They're light and fluffy. almost always fresh from the fryer to your bag and finished to order with cinnamon-sugar or glaze or a variety of other delicious treatments.
In the last few weeks, word of the donut shop has begun to spread, especially on twitter . "This Saturday's our fifth Saturday and last Saturday we had lines out the door," said Ron. Though, he pointed out, it's a lot easier to have lines out the door in a shop where only a few people can comfortably stand inside.
Donuts are sold by the dozen, or in mixed packs of fifteen. Slightly larger donuts are also available. You may soon see little donuts in other stores as well, since they hope to pick up wholesale accounts on top of walk-in customers and large orders. Having a party? Ron hasn't completely retired the donut-cart, and your guests will be talking about the freshly made donuts for years to come.
Just remember to stop by the ATM before rushing over to the Strip District, because Peace, Love and Little Donuts is cash only.
Aug 13 2009
Richard Chen, which closed its doors in April is re-opening Monday, August 17 as Plum Pan-Asian Kitchen. They have added a nine-seat sushi bar to the center of the dining room and revamped the menu to offer more small plates at a lower price point. The restaurant will be open Monday through Saturday for lunch and seven nights a week for dinner, with the possibility of adding Sunday brunch. "It's going to be more of a neighborhood place," said co-owner Cathy Chen.
Check back for a more detailed update next week.
Aug 05 2009
This summer, a number of new food businesses have opened up downtown.
Verde Good Beans recently celebrated its grand opening. This charming cafe at 412 First Avenue has drip coffee and espresso from La Prima. More than a place to pick up your morning coffee, they also have plenty of comfortable seats, breakfast panini, baked goods from Mediterra and Gelato from Mulberry Street Creamery.
For those of you who noticed and lamented the closing of 4th Street Espresso, cheer up. They've reopened as "Mocha Marianne's" at 411 Wood Street. The new shop is larger with more seating.
Over near the Cultural District, the Pittsburgh Popcorn Company has opened up a second location at 822 Liberty Avenue. Eight regular flavors including peanut butter and chocolate kettle corn, cinnamon toast and Wisconsin cheddar, and two weekly rotating flavors. Happily, they're popping on site at both locations, so your popcorn will always be fresh and delicious.
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