Nov 04 2009
For anyone who hasn't checked out the Strip on a Sunday morning, here's another great reason: Kaya is now serving brunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. The brunch menu includes plenty of old favorites, such as the Cuban sandwich, the crispy fish tacos and the Yucatan black bean dip, but our server encouraged us, and I encourage you, to try one of the new brunch only items. The menu is still evolving, but I'd bet that the dished we tried hang out for a little while (at least I hope they do!).
The Kaya Benedict ($12) substituted cornbread for the English muffin and pork loin (with other options, including soy sausage) for the Candian bacon. The hollandaise sauce was flavored with smoked pepper and the poached eggs were cooked to perfection -- egg yolks thickened, but not yet solid.
I fell hard for the South American omelette ($9), which enfolds diced pork loin (miraculously still moist), roasted anaheim peppers, black eye peas and manchego cheese in fluffy folds of egg. Egg dishes come with grilled pineapple (get a double-order for an extra $2, it's worth it) and some delectable potatoes.
They have some fun brunch cocktails on the menu as well, like the Vampiro, their take on a bloody mary with tequila, fresh grapefruit juice and a dash of lime; and the Belgian Waffle Martini with Sortilege maple whiskey, Kahlua and Frengelica.
Oct 30 2009
The Liberty Avenue storefront across from West Penn Hospital, once home to Cafe Roma, has become the home of a new Italian restaurant. Stagioni will open its door this Sunday for brunch and then for a grand opening dinner on Tuesday. Chef Stephen Felder and restaurant owner Cara DelSignore moved to Pittsburgh -- DelSignore's hometown -- almost three years ago, hoping to open up their own restaurant.
The restaurant is named after the Italian word for seasons, becauseFelder gets much of his inspiration from what's available at the local farmer's market. Diners can expect to see menu items such as market-inspired salads, braised beef short ribs with root vegetables, and house-made gnocchi. Felder and DelSignore designed the menu to be affordable without sacrificing quality of ingredients, and most entrees will be priced at around $15 to $18.
Stagioni will be open seven days a week, with brunch only on Sundays, lunch only on Mondays, and lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday; BYOB; 4770 Liberty Ave., Bloomfield; 412-687-5775.
Oct 01 2009
Dianne Porter, whose been making fabulous cocktails behind the bar of Morton's for fifteen years, is turning her attention to other parts of the menu as well. She's opening her own place in Allegheny West on the North Shore. Cassis, which is located near the corner of Western and Galveston Ave, will open October 13 for lunch, dinner and Sunday Brunch.
The restaurant has two dining rooms, which together can seat about 50. There's also a two-level back patio and a permit for sidewalk seating, but given the cold weather, Porter will likely wait until next summer to add outdoor seating. The dining rooms are decorated in "rich jewel tones," said Porter. Tables are covered with burgundy linens and white butcher paper, and the walls are decorated with photos of North Side windows and doors taken by a local photographer.
The menu ranges across a number of styles and cuisines. There are steamed dumplings of the day (6 for $8) and smoked trout spread with sliced apples and baguette ($7). There's also squid salad with Greek dressing ($10) and flank steak fajitas with black beans, spicy tomatillo salsa and sour cream ($10). The vast majority of the dishes are inexpensive, including lots of interesting sandwiches and salads for less than $10.
Since Porter certainly knows her way around a bar, it's no surprise that she's also enthusiastic about the wine list --about 30 bottles, 20 of them under $40 -- and cocktails. There will be several signature drinks featuring creme de cassis (black currant liqueur), including the Kir Royal - creme de cassis and champagne.
Sep 17 2009
Paris 66, one of the two restaurants I reviewed this week, has made a few additions that didn't make it into the review, but which I wanted to mention here. At the request of guests, they're adding some appetizers, such as a house made pate they tried out last week, which was very well received. They're also working out a plan to keep their outdoor patio open all winter, by enclosing it in clear plastic and putting in heaters. "Just like in Paris," as owner Frederic Rongier said.
I was impressed by Rongier's enthusiasm. Though Rongier's primary career is outside the restaurant industry, he seems to be one of the rare individuals who can learn as he goes, by sheer force of will and determination. He also plans to add comment cards to come with the check, so he can continue to get feedback from his customers.
Sep 09 2009
When Ron Razete made his donuts at weekend festivals and outdoor events, people always had the same question. "Where can I buy these?" He didn't have an answer, because until last month he didn't have a store. It was only when he found a tiny storefront on Smallman Street, less than 300 square feet, that he thought it might be possible to open up a donut shop and make a go of it. Peace, Love and Little Donuts had found a permanent home.
He and his wife Marci specialize in little donuts, miniature treats about the size of a donut hole but shaped like a traditional donut. They're light and fluffy. almost always fresh from the fryer to your bag and finished to order with cinnamon-sugar or glaze or a variety of other delicious treatments.
In the last few weeks, word of the donut shop has begun to spread, especially on twitter . "This Saturday's our fifth Saturday and last Saturday we had lines out the door," said Ron. Though, he pointed out, it's a lot easier to have lines out the door in a shop where only a few people can comfortably stand inside.
Donuts are sold by the dozen, or in mixed packs of fifteen. Slightly larger donuts are also available. You may soon see little donuts in other stores as well, since they hope to pick up wholesale accounts on top of walk-in customers and large orders. Having a party? Ron hasn't completely retired the donut-cart, and your guests will be talking about the freshly made donuts for years to come.
Just remember to stop by the ATM before rushing over to the Strip District, because Peace, Love and Little Donuts is cash only.
Aug 13 2009
Richard Chen, which closed its doors in April is re-opening Monday, August 17 as Plum Pan-Asian Kitchen. They have added a nine-seat sushi bar to the center of the dining room and revamped the menu to offer more small plates at a lower price point. The restaurant will be open Monday through Saturday for lunch and seven nights a week for dinner, with the possibility of adding Sunday brunch. "It's going to be more of a neighborhood place," said co-owner Cathy Chen.
Check back for a more detailed update next week.
Aug 05 2009
This summer, a number of new food businesses have opened up downtown.
Verde Good Beans recently celebrated its grand opening. This charming cafe at 412 First Avenue has drip coffee and espresso from La Prima. More than a place to pick up your morning coffee, they also have plenty of comfortable seats, breakfast panini, baked goods from Mediterra and Gelato from Mulberry Street Creamery.
For those of you who noticed and lamented the closing of 4th Street Espresso, cheer up. They've reopened as "Mocha Marianne's" at 411 Wood Street. The new shop is larger with more seating.
Over near the Cultural District, the Pittsburgh Popcorn Company has opened up a second location at 822 Liberty Avenue. Eight regular flavors including peanut butter and chocolate kettle corn, cinnamon toast and Wisconsin cheddar, and two weekly rotating flavors. Happily, they're popping on site at both locations, so your popcorn will always be fresh and delicious.
Jul 27 2009
For many weeks, Dozen Bake Shop's Facebook page had set date after date for its Downtown opening, tantalizing its fans with the prospect of freshly baked muffins, cupcakes, and pastries at 807 Liberty Avenue.
Now, with a red and navy storefront and a sandwich board outside, the promised cafe is finally here.
The 250-square-foot space is a retail location, meaning no baking is done on-site. Instead, the store sells items made in the Dozen Bake Shop in Lawrenceville. But there's no need to worry about freshness, owner James Gray assures. All the items are baked through the night in the Lawrenceville kitchen and delivered daily to each of Dozen's locations.
The shop is meant as a to-go breakfast and lunch spot or a quick stop for an indulgent treat, since there's no space for seating. The one-room shop is illuminated by sunlight that pours in from the large front window, basking jars of cookies and slices of banana bread in a warm glow. Menu items are the staples Dozen has become synonymous with: sweets like cinnamon rolls ($3), cupcakes ($2.50), quick breads ($2-$2.50) and granola ($3.50), as well as lunch fare like sandwiches ($7) and soup ($4.25).
Gray believes the bakery will do well even in the current economic climate, since Dozen offers affordable luxuries that "don't sting too badly."
Plus, Dozen's concept of being Pittsburgh-focused is unique in among bakeries here, he said. Dozen uses locally-sourced fruits, vegetables, and meat whenever possible. For instance, beet salad is composed of produce from Mildred's Daughter's Farm in Stanton Heights, muffins are made with organic strawberries from Kretschmann Farms near Zelienople, and milk comes from Turner Dairy Farms in Penn Hills.
That local, home-grown feel is why Gray thinks Dozen has a space in the Downtown market, which is already saturated with coffee and pastry shops.
"There are plenty of shops that offer Saran-wrapped Danishes and donuts, but who makes them? Where do they come from?" he said. "With Dozen, people can be certain that everything is made in our kitchen, by our bakers."
Gray's ardent pride in his product has driven Dozen's expansion from a single narrow cupcake shop in Squirrel Hill three years ago to its four locations today in Squirrel Hill, Lawrenceville, Downtown and the Cafe at the Warhol on the North Side. As for the future of the seemingly unstoppable Dozen? With a mischievous smile, Gray gives a cryptic answer.
"I don't want to say too much, but Dozen is in the process of pursuing one more location," he said. "And I'm also looking at expanding what I do as a chef and baker."
Dozen Bake Shop Downtown will be open Monday through Friday, 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. and Saturday, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.
--Liyun Jin
Jul 27 2009
John and Ed Lewis today announced the closing of their South Side restaurant Bruschetta's, which has enjoyed considerable popularity during its 14-year life span. While the decision to close wasn't easy, the brothers are ready to move on to something new.
"Fine dining, white tablecloth business has been a little tough over the last couple of years," said John Lewis in a phone interview. As the South Side became the most popular barhopping destination in the city, those seeking quieter evenings at nicer restaurants seem to have grown frustrated with difficult parking and crowds of late-night revelers. Mr. Lewis also cited the many new restaurants in the East End, which he believes have encouraged customers to dine closer to home.
The restaurant will close after dinner on Saturday, August 15 and the Lewis brothers and chef Tom Rebstock encourage fans of the restaurant to come enjoy at least one last meal.
Plans are already underway for a new business to open in the space. Mr. Lewis described it as an upscale bar, with a light food menu. John and Ed will be involved in the business, but will take much more of a backseat, advisory role. Chef Rebstock will likely stay on to help design the new menu, and they will continue to offer private party opportunities in the space.
Jul 10 2009
Once, the storefront at 1120 East Carson hosted the Iguana. Later, the Iguana became Yo Rita, an average bar serving less-than-impressive Mexican food. The latest incarnation of 1120 East Carson is still Yo Rita, but it's no longer the place you settle for because you're drunk and hungry. Now it’s an actual culinary destination. Under the direction of consulting-chef Kevin Sousa, the restaurant ditched its generic, Mexican-American entrees in favor of a more streamlined menu. Right now there are five Latin-inspired appetizers plus a ceviche of the day and 15 different tacos, available a la carte.
The taco toppings aren't limited to "authentic" Mexican preparations, though many are Latin-inspired. The braised pork taco ($4) with mole and jalapenos is something you might find South of the Border, but the addition of tart apples to offset the spice is a new, tasty twist. Other versions, like the duck taco ($6) topped with a sweet fig chutney, embrace the idea that virtually anything tastes good between fresh tortillas, which are made on site. On a recent visit, a scallop ceviche was served in a deep bowl and topped with radishes, cucumbers, jalapenos and, a surprising but appreciated twist, toasted rice flavored with chili and garlic powder.
The restaurant also offers a few dishes that most Pittsburgh Mexican restaurants would probably deem too daring for Pittsburgh palates, such as lengua (cow’s tongue) and fresh water eel tacos. There are also plenty of options for less adventurous eaters, like a chorizo corn dog made with blue corn batter and tortilla soup ($5). The menu includes a glossary of food terms (because how many people knew that epazote is a Mexican herb with a flavor resembling fennel, anise and tarragon?) and will change through the seasons.
Yo Rita hasn't lost its identity as a bar, either. They now have a list of eight interesting wines by the glass ($5-8), twenty-one different kinds of tequila ($5-30), and seven specialty cocktails, such as a watermelon margarita made with fresh watermelon ($8) and La Diabla, made with El Jimador Reposado Tequila, pineapple, habenero pepper and lime.
-- Moriah Balingit
You can reach Moriah Balingit at 412-263-2533 or mbalingit@post-gazette.com.
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