New cafe to open in Lawrenceville

Though Espresso A Mano, a new café on Butler Street in Lawrenceville, won’t open for another few weeks, owner Matt Gebis is already there every day, slowly checking the final elements of his to do list and getting used to the rhythms of the neighborhood.

Gebis, born in McKeesport and educated at the University of Pittsburgh, has wanted to own his own café for a long time. He started working at La Prima while an undergrad. While learning to pull shots of Italian-style espresso, he was also studying and eventually teaching Italian. But eventually he realized that he wanted to make a career in coffee. At La Prima, he’s gotten a well-rounded education. He's sold coffee, run the service center, worked in production and run the espresso bar.

Gebis has a reputation for excellence among local baristas, and he'll certainly be missed at La Prima. But he hasn't abandoned his old cafe. The house espresso is from La Prima, a special blend Gebis designed. It's a two-bean blend, one from South America and one from African. Gebis is using a grinder and espresso machine from Nuova Simonelli. The espresso Gebis served me had a full, creamy body. The taste was nutty, with notes of lemon oil and honey sweetness in the finish.

He’ll will also have beans from Counter Culture, a small roaster based in Durham, North Carolina. He plans to always have two espressos, his house blend and either a blend from counter culture or a single origin.

There’s an Italian influence in the store’s design as well. A curved counter in red and brown, the visual focal point, is one of very few standing espresso

bars in the Pittsburgh. The café is fairly large, with exposed brick walls, a high ceiling with exposed beams and a garage-style door open to the street.

The cafe space isn't quite complete. He doesn't even have a cash register yet. But the espresso machine is set up, he has a few dozen borrowed cups, and he's already serving customers . . . he's just not charging them. A sign on the door offering free samples of espresso and cappuccino brought in a half-dozen passers-by on a Wednesday mid-morning.
   
Though he’s  eager to open for business, Gebis is patience personified.  As he pulls shots of espresso, chatting agreeably with potential customers and skillfully finishing cappuccino with a leaf pattern etched into the surface, it’s seems that there is nowhere he’d rather be than behind the bar at his own shop.

Restaurants suffer storm damage

While this blog is mostly devoted to what's new in the Pittsburgh food world, it will also occasionally report on other breaking restaurant news. Last Wednesday's storm caused a lot of damage to homes and businesses throughout the region, including a number of restaurants. Point Brugge in Point Breeze was able to re-open on Friday after being closed Thursday, but according to a recorded message,  Pangea in Shadyside will not re-open for several weeks.

Another local food favorite that suffered damage from the flooding was Najat's Cuisine, a Lebanese food business owned by Najat and Henry Nazarian. They make Lebanese food found at restaurants, grocery stores and farmer's markets in the Pittsburgh area. According to  Amy McConnell Schaarsmith, in a story that appeared in Friday's P-G:

"The couple estimates the storm did about $10,000 to $15,000 worth of damage. They have no flood insurance and wonder how they'll get back on their feet."

To learn more about the effects of the storm on Najat's Cuisine, watch this video recorded by P-G reporter Moriah Balingit.

The Fonda Feast

Jessica Hudale Bobadilla and Gerardo Bobadilla met in the city of Play del Carmen in Mexico, when  Jessica was on vacation with her family. Today, they're married, living in Forest Hills and hoping to make a living from a slightly unconventional career: Running a Mexican food truck. They bought the truck in November of 2008 and they've been in the Strip District on Saturday's for about two-and-a-half months. The food is based on recipes from Gerardo's mother and Grandmother. Starting last week, they've  extended their hours. Now, from Wednesday Through Friday they'll be at Penn Ave and 20th Street from  7 a.m. to 3 p.m. and Saturday from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. On weekdays they'll serve breakfast and lunch; on Saturdays, lunch only.

Breakfast options include Mexican eggs ($6), scrambled eggs with onions, tomatoes and chiles verdes served with side of beans and corn tortillas. Ranchero Eggs ($7) are two eggs sunny-side up served over a corn tortilla and topped with red or green sauce,   tomato, onion and avocado, served with a side of beans. Lunch options include tacos (2 for $5, one for $3); burritos ($6), enchiladas ($3.50) and quesadillas ($3.50). For now, chicken and beef are the only meat options.  They also have a daily special, such as chicken mole or carne asada.

On Saturday's, they have tamales. For now they're bringing one flavor per week, usually either chicken mole or pork adobo. Larger amounts of several kinds of tamale can be ordered in advance. The Bobadillas also catering parties and events.

Eventually they hope to be parked at other spots throughout the city, including a spot near Heinz Field during Steelers games. Because of the size of their truck, they have to be in a private lot, rather than on a city street where they would need to move every thirty minutes. To place a special order or get more information, call 412-735-8448.

Sweet Berry

Only weeks after Pittsburgh got its first tart frozen yogurt stop, we already have a second, this one in Oakland. Sweet Berry is a chain with a number of other locations in California and the Washington, D.C. area, but this is the first one in Pennsylvania. They have two types of frozen yogurt, plain and honeydew. A small is $2.99, $.50 extra for honeydew; toppings are $.99 for one or $1.49 for up to three. They include sliced nuts, fresh fruit, cereal and (my personal favorite) bits of mochi. The yogurt at Sweet Berry isn't as tart as some natural frozen yogurts, though it's still low in sugar. They also have smoothies and Seattle's Best Coffee. The web site is still under construction. Check it out at 115 Meyran Avenue (between Fifth and Forbes) or call 412-235-7623‎ for more information.

Paris 66

Paris 66, a tiny French bistro and crepery in East Liberty, is subtitled “Everyday French Food.” Maybe that description flies in France, but here in Pittsburgh, the café’s French-speaking staff and elaborate menu of perfectly folded food make it anything but every day.

Although owners Frederic and Lori Rongier have yet to hold a grand opening (set for June 21), the restaurant is already packed at lunchtime. The rich butter cream façade is tucked between shops on Penn Circle South. A large bay window allows passersby to watch the head chef (who greets everyone with a lively “bonjour!”) fold crepes and plate food so perfectly it looks like artwork.

Behind a heavy wooden door, chattering voices overwhelm the small rectangular seating area. In the kitchen, which is also the check-out area, disorganized shelves lined with coffee cups, and glass cases packed with homemade desserts make the place feel more like a quaint sidewalk café than a fancy French restaurant.

And that’s good thing, because that’s exactly what Paris 66 is – most of the time. After the grand opening, the owners plan to break out the linens and prepare an elaborate multi-course dinner once a month. The special meals will be reservation only and each one will likely will feature food from a different region of France.

Paris 66 is open for lunch Tuesday through Saturday and dinner Thursday through Saturday. The entrees are primarily crepes. Two types -- savory (like "La Paris 66" with ham, swiss cheese, egg, mushrooms and tomato provencale) and sweet (like "La Boulogne" with banana and nutella or homemade chocolate sauce with whipped cream).

Because of the small staff, much of which came from the recently closed Ma Provence in Squirrel Hill, the bistro appropriately closes from 3 p.m. to 5 p.m. each day. Appropriate because that’s the same thing many restaurants do in France; it gives employees time to take a break and regroup.

So while Paris 66 may have far-away roots, it’s already finding a foothold in East Liberty. And technically, it hasn’t even opened.